Spring lace sweater

I had this idea in my head and couldn't find a pattern out there that fit everything that I was looking for, so I decided to try my hand at designing it. It came out just like I wanted it to! So here it is for all of you to enjoy :-)

Materials:

• ~4.5 skeins of Knit Picks Cotlin DK yarn (~600 yds)
• Size 7 24" circular needle
• Tape measure
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• 1 pin back (optional)

Finished size: fits 34" inch bust

Gauge: 5.5 stitches per inch and 7 rows per inch

Necessary skills / Required stitches/abbreviations:

• K: Knit
• P: Purl
• Kfb: Knit front and back of stitch (increase 1 stitch)
• Pfb: Purl front and back of stitch (increase 1 stitch)
• YO: Yarn Over (increase 1 stitch)
• K2tog: Knit two stitches together (decrease 1 stitch)
• SSK: Slip two stitchs as if to knit. Pass back to the left needle and knit together through the back. (decrease 1 stitch)
• P2togtbl: Purl two stitches together through the back of the loops. (decrease 1 stitch)
• Knit in round on a circular needle
• Cable cast on

Pattern:

CO 128 and join in round (careful not to twist)

R1: P all stitches placing markers every 16 stitches (use different markers than round marker so that you can tell when a round begins)

R2: K1, K2tog, YO, K2, Kfb, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, Kfb around (8 times)

R3: K2, K2tog, YO, K1, Kfb, SSK, K2, K2tog, YO, K1, K2tog, Kfb around (8 times)

R4: as 2

R5: as 3

R6: as 2

R7: K all stitches removing markers as you go. Place new markers after 23 stitches, 18 stitches, 46, stitches, and 18 stitches (23 remain for end of round). Again use different markers than the round marker.

R8: K to last stitch before marker. Kfb. Slip marker. Kfb. around. (Do not increase at round marker)

R9: K all stitches Repeat rows 8 and 9 until 60 stitches are between the markers where there were 18 originally (sleeves). This should be about 7 inches from the top of the work. End with a R9.

On next row, K to first marker. Bind of sleeve stitches as follows: CO 2 stitches using cable cast on; bind off 6 stitches. Repeat to next marker. (You will have to bind off the last sleeve stich over the first stitch after the marker. K across the front stitches. Repeat bind off for other sleeve. K across the back stitches to finish round.

On the next row, K to one stitch before arm hole gap, CO two using cable cast on. K3 (you should be at arm hole now). PM. K1. CO two using cable case on. K to one stitch before other arm hole gap and repeat. K across back stitches to finish round. There should be 92 stiches for the front and the back (184 total).

K 7 rounds straight.

Begin body shaping decreases as follows: K to 2 stitches before marker. SSK. slip marker. K2tog. K across front stitches. SSK. slip marker. K2tog. K across back stitches to finish round.

K two rows straight.

Repeat these three rows 6 times total (80 stitches remain for front and back - 160 total).

Knit even until the shirt measures 10.5 inches from the arm hole. Increase before and after marker on each row for 10 rows (100 stitches for front and back - 200 total).

Knit until shirt measures 13 inches from armpit (measure straight - not along seam where the hip increase is) or 20 inches from collar (or desired length)

Bind off as sleeves.

Weave in ends and block (if desired).


Flower:

CO 64

R1: Knit

R2: K1, K2tog, YO, K2, Kfb, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, Kfbimes)

R3: Pfb, P2tog, P1, YO, P2tog, P2, P2togtbl, Pfb, P1, YO, P2tog, P2imes)

R4: as 2

R5: as 3

R6: as 2

R7: P2tog for all stitches

R8: K2tog for all stitches

Bind off with purl stitches

Curl into spiral and either sew onto shirt or pin

Emphasized Stripe Hat (inspired by Gap)

I was out shopping this past weekend and saw a really cute hat at Gap Kids (http://www.gap.com/browse/product.do?searchCID=25781&pid=688433&scid=688433002&vid=1). Of course, I realized how easy it would be to make, so I decided to make it :-) A new hat is really the last thing on Earth that I need right now, but I just couldn't resist...

This hat would also be a very cute accessory to FawnPea's sweater and my matching pants if made in a baby size (http://fpea.blogspot.com/2007/07/free-pattern-fridays-super-natural.html and http://straayersscribbles.blogspot.com/2009/07/pants-to-match-super-natrual-stripes-by.html).

This pattern is written for a small adult female. It could be easily modified to accomodate any yarn type (the inspiration was actually a super bulky weight) or size though. Just check your guage and adjust your cast on!

Approximate finished circumference:
20 inches

Gauge:
16 sts to 4 inches, 20 rows to 4 inches in stockinette

Materials:

• Nashua Handknits Snowbird (Aran) in Blue, Sky Blue, and Spring Green: less than one skein of each (probably about 1/2 a skein of the Blue, and much less of the other two. less than 50 g/73 yards total)
• US 10 (6.0mm) circular (16 inch) and double pointed needles
• Tapestry needle to weave in ends

Techniques:
Knit, purl, decrease, knitting in the round, bind off

Terms:
K2tog: knit two stitches together as one

Pattern:

With circular needles, cast on 70 stitches of Main Color (MC - blue in model).
Join in the round, being careful that stitches are not twisted.
(1-8) Work 8 rows garter stitch (since we are working in the round this means K one row P one row...last row should be a P row)
Change to Contrast Color A (CCA - sky blue in model).

(9-13) Knit 5 rows in stockinette.

Change to MC.

(14) Purl one row.

(15-18) Knit 4 rows in stockinette.

Change to Contrast Color B (CCB - spring green in model).

(19) Purl one row.

(20-23) Knit 4 rows in stockinette.
Change to MC.
(24) Purl one row.

(25-28) Knit 4 rows in stockinette.
Change to CCA.

(29) Purl one row.

Begin decreases:

(30) *K5, K2tog. Repeat from * to end.

(31) Knit.

(32) *K4, K2tog. Repeat from * to end.

(33) Knit.

(34) *K3, K2tog. Repeat from * to end.

Change to MC.

(35) Purl.

(36) *K2, K2tog. Repeat from * to end.

(37) Knit.

(38) *K1, K2tog. Repeat from * to end.

(39) Knit.

(40) K2tog to end.

(41) K2tog to end.

Cut yarn, thread tail through the remaining loops and secure.

Weave in all ends. Make a pom using CCA and CCB and attach to top. (optional)

enjoy!

Double-Breasted Baby Sweater

(still need to find the perfect buttons!)

Double-Breasted Baby Sweater
(pattern edited on 1/24/11 for a correct c/o number - thanks to Desiree!)
(pattern edited on 2/22/11 to get correct placement of button holes - thanks to several Ravelry members!)

Materials:
Approximately 200 yards Aran Weight Wool yarn
Size 9 circular needle
Size 9 double pointed needles
Tapestry needle
6 stitch markers
Spare yarn to hold sleeve stitches
6 buttons (approximately 1” diameter)

Finished size: 0-3 months (chest 16” circumference; length 9”)

Gauge: 4 stitches per inch and 5 rows per inch

Necessary skills / Required stitches/abbreviations:
K: Knit
P: Purl
Seed stitch
pm: place marker
Kfb: Knit front and back of stitch (increase 1 stitch)
K2tog: Knit two stitches together (decrease 1 stitch)
YO: Yarn Over (increase 1 stitch)
Knit in round

Pattern:
Cast on 56 stitches.
R1-4: Work four rows in seed stitch (odd rows begin K; even rows begin P)
R5: Work 5 in seed stitch (KPKPK); pm; Kfb; K3; Kfb; pm; Kfb; K8; Kfb, pm; Kfb; K14; Kfb; pm; Kfb; K8; Kfb; pm; Kfb; K3; Kfb; pm; Work 5 in seed stitch (PKPKP) – increased 10 stitches
R6 (and all even/wrong side rows): Work 5 in seed stitch (PKPKP); P to last marker; Work 5 in seed stitch (KPKPK)
R7 (and odd/right side rows): Work 5 in seed stitch (KPKPK); pass marker; *Kfb; K to marker; Kfb; pass marker; repeat from * to last marker; Work last 5 in seed stitch (PKPKP)
i.e. you increase before and after each marker except the first and last that separate the button bands – there only increase on the body side.
Continue with rows 6 and 7 until there are 22 stitches between the back markers.
R13: Work 5 in seed stitch (KPKPK); pass marker; Kfb 4 times; K to marker Kfb; pass marker; Kfb; continue to last four stitches before last marker; Kfb 4 times; pass marker; Work 5 in seed stitch (PKPKP)
R14: Work as R6
R15: Work 5 in seed stitch (KPKPK); pass marker; K to marker; *Kfb; pass marker; Kfb; K to marker; repeat from * to last marker; pass marker; work 5 in seed stitch (PKPKP)
Continue with rows 14 and 15 until there are 34 stitches between the back markers.
R21: (this will occur when you have 30 stitches between back markers)(button hole row): Work 5 in seed stitch (KPKPK); pass marker; K to marker; *Kfb; pass marker; Kfb; K to marker; repeat from * to 12 stitches before last marker; K2tog YO; K10; pass marker; P, K2tog, YO, K, P
R25: Work 5 in seed stitch (KPKPK); pass marker; K to marker; remove marker; place sleeve stitches on spare yarn; remove marker; K to marker; remove marker; place sleeve stitches on spare yarn; remove marker; K to marker; pass marker; work 5 in seed stitch (PKPKP)
R26 (and all even/wrong side rows): Work 5 in seed stitch (PKPKP); P to marker; Work 5 in seed stitch (KPKPK)
R27 (and all odd/right side rows): Work 5 in seed stitch (KPKPK); K to last marker; Work 5 in seed stitch (PKPKP)
Continue with rows 26 and 27 until the body measures 8.5 inches from the neck.
R31 (button hole row): work 5 in seed stitch (KPKPK); pass marker; K to 12 stitches before last marker; K2tog YO; K10; pass marker; P, K2tog, YO, K, P
R41 (button hole row): work 5 in seed stitch (KPKPK); pass marker; K to 12 stitches before last marker; K2tog YO; K10; pass marker; P, K2tog, YO, K, P

Work 4 rows in seed stitch.
Bind off in pattern (loosely).

Sleeves:
Place the held stitches on 3 dpns. Also pick up 2 stitches from the armpit (30 stitches total).
Join in the round.
K 3 rows.
On 4th row, K to last two stitches K2tog.
Repeat this pattern until 24 stitches remain. (Should be about 5 inches from armpit)
Work 4 rows in seed stitch.
Bind off in pattern (loosely).

Finishing:
Sew in loose ends and attach 6 buttons.

Pants to match "Super-Natrual Stripes" by Fawn Pea

I made the adorable sweater by Fawn Pea and had some extra yarn, so designed some pants to match.

For the sweater see: http://fpea.blogspot.com/2007/07/free-pattern-fridays-super-natural.html

Materials:

Three colors of Aran weight yarn. Nashua Handknits Snowbird 37 yards in spring green; Nashua Handknits Snowbird 37 yards in natural; Nashua Handknits Snowbird 73 yards in sky blue.

size 7 circluar 16 inch (optional) needle; size 7 double-pointed needles

tapestry needle

Size:

Newborn (13.5'' waist unstretched)

Gague:

18 stiches and 24 rows to 4''

Pattern:

cast on 60 stitches in tan. join in round being careful not to twist.

work in 2X2 rib for 2 inches.

purl one row green

change to blue

work in stk for 5 inches

separate for legswork (hold 30 stitches on spare yarn)

work in stockinette in blue for 3 inches

begin decreasing 1 stitch every 3 rows

continue working in blue in stockinette with decreases for 2 inches

work stockinette in tan for 1 inch (continue decreases)

work stockinette in green for 1 inch (do not decrease)

work garter in tan for 4 rows

bind off loosely

for pockets: (create two)

cast on 10 stitches in green

R1:K

R2:K2, P6, K2

R3: same as R1

R4: same as R2

R5: same as R1

R6: same as R2

R7: same as R1

R8-R10: K

bind off loosely

sew on with tan yarn

Personalized Patchwork Baby Blanket

Materials:
Two colors of Worsted weight yarn. About 600 yards of main color (MC) and 300 of contrast color (CC). I used Caron Simply Soft in Bone and Sage. The Caron Simply Soft yarn is a great yarn for baby projects because it is (as it says) VERY soft, has a slight sheen which really makes this pattern pop, and is acrylic so it is machine washable and dryable.
Size 9 32’’ circular needle
Cable needle
Tapestry needle
Graph paper http://www.printfreegraphpaper.com/

Finished size approximately 30’’ X 30’’

Gauge: not terribly important but I was 16 stitches and 7 rows per 4’’ square

Necessary skills / Required stitches:
K: Knit
P: Purl
K2tog: Knit two stitches together
M1: pick up bar between stitches and knit into it (creates a new stitch)
YO: yarn over. Wrap yarn around the needle (creates new stitch)
C4B: Cable stitch. Pass two stitches to cable needle and hold behind work. K2. K2 from cable needle.
Knit in two colors. Both Intarsia and Stranding methods are used in this pattern. For great tutorials, see http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/advanced-techniques.

Pattern:
Cast on 122 stitches in CC.

Bottom Border: (all in CC)
R1: K
R2: P
R3: K2tog across
R4: *K1, M1. Repeat from * until one stitch remains. YO. K.
R5: K
R6: P
R7: K2tog across
R8: *K1, M1. Repeat from * until one stitch remains. YO. K.
R9: K
R10: P

Body:
R1: K2tog three times. Tie in MC of yarn, but do not cut CC string. Every time you make a color switch, be sure that the old color string lies on top of the new color string. In MC: *K10. P2, K2 five times. Repeat from * until six stitches remain. Tie in CC of yarn (approximately 50 yards), but do not cut MC string. In CC: K2tog three times. You will now have three balls of yarn hanging from your work. These will get very tangled as you work, so you should try to straighten your strings often.

R2: In CC: *K1, M1. Repeat from * 3 times. In MC: P10. P2, K2 five times. P10. K2, P2 five times. P10. P2, K2 five times. P10. K2, P2 five times. P10. P2, K2 five times. P10. In CC: *M1 (be sure to pick up a bar that is in CC), K1. Repeat from * 3 times.

R3: In CC: K6. In MC: K3, C4B, K3. P2, K2 five times. K10. K2, P2 five times. K3, C4B, K3. P2, K2 five times. K10. K2, P2 five times. K3, C4B, K3. P2, K2 five times. K10. In CC: K6.

R4: In CC: P6. In MC: *P10. P2, K2 five times. Repeat from * until 6 stitches remain. In CC: P6.

R5: (Same as R1)

R6: (Same as R2)

R7: (Same as R3)

R8: (Same as R4)

R9: (Same as R1)

R10: (Same as R2)

R11: (Same as R3)

R12: (Same as R4)

R13: (Same as R1)

R14: (Same as R2)

R15: (Same as R3)

R16: (Same as R4)

R17: In CC: K2tog three times. In MC: *P2, K2 five times. K10. Repeat from * until 6 stitches remain. In CC: K2tog three times.

R18: In CC: *K1, M1. Repeat from * three times. In MC: K2, P2 five times. P10. P2, K2 five times. P10. K2, P2 five times. P10. P2, K2 five times. P10. K2, P2 five times. P10. P2, K2 five times. In CC: *M1 (be sure to pick up bar that is in CC), K1. Repeat from * 3 times.

R19: In CC: K6. In MC: P2, K2 five times. K10. K2, P2 five times. K3, C4B, K3. P2, K2 five times. K10. K2, P2 five times. K3, C4B, K3. P2, K2 five times. K10. K2, P2 five times. In CC: K6.

R20: In CC: P6. In MC: *P2, K2 five times. P10. Repeat from * until 6 stitches remain. In CC: P6.

R21: (Same as R17)

R22: (Same as R18)

R23: (Same as R19)

R24: (Same as R20)

R25: (Same as R17)

R26: (Same as R18)

R27: (Same as R19)

R28: (Same as R20)

R29: (Same as R17)

R30: (Same as R18)

R31: (Same as R19)

R32: (Same as R20)

You now have the first two sections of the body completed. Notice that the four textures of squares are moving upward and to the right on a diagonal. (See table below). Continue in this manner until you have 8 sections completed.

For the 9th section, you can either continue the pattern, or insert a name or design. If you are going to insert a name or design, do the entire section in stockinette stitch. Do 4 rows plain stockinette. 8 rows of your design. 4 rows of plain stockinette. To create your design, print out a sheet of graph paper and plot out your design (8 rows tall). To be sure that your design is centered count how many stitches across your design is. Subtract this from 110. Then divide by 2. This is the number of stitches you should count into the MC before beginning your design. Remember that your first row of your design (and every right side row) you will be knitting across your design backwards!
For the 10th section, whether you did a special 9th or not, continue the original section pattern so that the diagonals remain in tact.

Top Border: (all in CC)
R1: K2tog across
R2: *K1, M1. Repeat from * until one stitch remains. YO. K.
R3: K
R4: P
R5: K2tog across
R6: *K1, M1. Repeat from * until one stitch remains. YO. K.
R7: K
R8: P

Bind Off loosely.